And the two sides of the paper are referred to as the wire side or the felt side. But the impression left by the wire mesh often persists. Of course, both sides end up getting squeezed between sheets of felt, which reduces the difference in texture between the “front” and “back” faces. The first is the wire side where the pulp adhered to the mold.Īnd the second is the felt side where the sheet was placed on the felt for drying. As you have probably guessed, this process can produce two different surfaces to the paper. I’m telling you this so you understand the difference between the two sides of traditionally made watercolor paper. Smooth “hot press” paper undergoes an additional treatment of being compressed by hot rollers to smooth away the texture. The type of felt used is what gives watercolor paper its famous “rough” or “cold press” finish. A big press is used to squeeze out the water and begin the drying process. This wet paper sheet is sandwiched between successive layers of felt (like a big paper and felt lasagna). This sheet of pulp is then transferred to a sheet of felt for drying. The water drains away and the pulp sticks to the wire mesh. This mold is dipped into a vat of cotton pulp, then sloshed around to spread the pulp evenly over the mesh. This is basically a big flat sieve with a wire mesh stretched across a frame. Handmade papers are produced using a rectangular hand-held mold. To begin with, cotton fibers are mixed with a large amount of water to make paper pulp. Differences between handmade and moldmade watercolor paperġ00% cotton paper can either be handmade or moldmade. Well sized paper also allows wet paint to transfer easily from brush to paper, and remain damp on the surface so you have longer to play with the paint. Sizing prevents all the color pigments from watercolors from being absorbed deep into the paper, and in this way it preserves the bright color appearance of your paints. Sizing is an important feature, especially for watercolor paper. The two factors which might have an influence on how the paper handles (apart from your choice of weight, surface finish, etc.), are the “ tooth” or textural variations and any possible differences in the sizing of the paper sheet. Of course, the real question we’re asking ourselves is whether there’s a discrepancy in the handling qualities of the “front” and “back” of the sheet. The only noticeable difference is a slight change in texture between the two faces. This is true for the majority of good quality 100% cotton papers on the market. If you’re asking yourself this question then it probably means there isn’t a huge visual difference between the two sides of your paper. I did a little research to find out what changes you can expect between one side of your paper and the other! What Side of Watercolor Paper to Use And this difference varies depending on the brand and type of paper you choose to paint on. But with that being said, there IS a difference between the two sides of the paper. The only real difference being a subtle variation in texture. So what side of your watercolor paper should you use? Most of the time the answer seems to be “whichever side you like”. The important question being whether there’s a “correct side of the paper on which you are intended to paint. I’ve found myself in this situation a few times. Have you ever found yourself wondering which side of watercolor paper to use? Maybe you cut up a large sheet into smaller pieces, and now you’re wondering which was the “right” side to paint on? Or if you’ve removed a sheet from a watercolor block or a pad then you’re facing the same problem…
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